Thanks be to God! Amen! Amen!

Well, that’s the end of The Travels of Marco Polo. I think I would have enjoyed it more if I were well versed in the history of Asian cultures, or if I knew more about architecture or language. It’s been years since I’ve been to China, but the (relatively brief) depictions of places Marco Polo and I have both been to don’t remind me of anything. No surprise, really. Places change over the course of 700 years.

The book did make me a little more envious of William Dalrymple’s travels in In Xanadu, which saw the author retracing Marco Polo’s journey in the 1980s. While a lot has changed over the centuries, the paths are still there, and (very frequently) so are the cities. The Travels of Marco Polo would definitely be a book I’d refer back to if and when I went back to Asia. It might even be an impetus.

There’s just something … exciting about feeling that kind of connection with the distant past.

I read The Journals of Lewis and Clark a few years ago when this blog was still in its infancy, and that, I think, is how I can imagine (at least somewhat) how it would feel to travel in Marco Polo’s footsteps.

We here in Nebraska don’t have a lot what I would characterize as “cool history,” but Lewis and Clark did pass through here (twice!), and Sarah and I frequently make trips along the same path they took (owing to our having family in Montana). Sure, we’re in a car and not hauling boats upstream while fighting off hordes of mosquitos, but there is a kind of visceral connection.

Of course, Sarah and I camp a lot when we travel, and it hasn’t been several centuries since Lewis and Clark bumbled their way through, so you can always get the sense that you’re seeing the same island or river bend that Lewis and Clark might have seen. Is that a real connection, or is it just some ghostly mirage that pops into my head when it’s quiet near the Missouri and the stars are out?

Beats me, but I bet you could find something similar on the path of Polo.

Doing a little research into what traveling the Silk Road might be like today and, besides the visa issues and relative danger of traveling through Afghanistan and Pakistan, going along the Silk Road would be way easier. There are more highways now, as well as high-speed rail. Plus the internet! You could probably do the whole trip while staying Airbnbs.

If you were going to do the trip, though, you’d probably want to break it into a series of destinations and find a … slow way of doing it. Taking cars or buses rather than anything faster.

No point in retracing someone’s footsteps if they were riding a horse and you’re on an airplane.

School is canceled today because of snow and frankly horrifying temperatures — it is 1 degree Fahrenheit right now, and I’m afraid that’s as high as it’s going to get. I’m sitting in my office next to a space heater with Jolene curled up at my feet. Now that the driveway is scooped, I don’t have to go back out for anything.

(Unless the action figure I ordered off eBay shows up today.)

I’m using the time to read and get over this damned cold. I also might watch Conclave this evening; I’ve heard good things and I’d like to be more purposeful with the movies and TV I watch. I feel like I’m missing out on a lot of good stuff because I get stuck re-watching old comfort shows.

Splish sploosh I was having a boosh

I did most of my reading yesterday in the bathtub. I’m an avid bath reader to begin with, but I’ve got a case of the flu that keeps giving me the chills, so I’ve been making a bunch of bubble baths to help raise my body temperature.

The last couple of weeks have been tough on my physical health. I had some kind of stomach bug last Wednesday (“stomach bugs” are almost always food-borne illness) and this week a flu has literally decimated my school. I’m staying hydrated, eating saltines, and bathing more than that chick from Splash.

(I know her name is Daryl Hannah. Every guy my age knows her name is Daryl Hannah, but I thought it’d be cooler if I seemed nonchalant about it.)

Marco Polo has just crossed the Gobi desert and relayed the tale of a village where husbands let their wives sleep with visitors who pass through. (It’s called “being a good host.”) The government told the people of the village to stop it because that was weird, but the villagers wrote a letter saying, “Please, please, please let our spouses sleep with strangers; it’s tradition!” and the government responded by saying, “Oh, alright. Fine. You guys can keep boning vagrants. Who are we to stand in the way of tradition?”

The Travels of Marco Polo makes me think about travel, naturally, but particularly the way most Americans tend to blast through their trips like they’re trying to speed-run Paris. For us, travel is full of maps and time tables and lists of all the things we have to do and see and eat. A lot of us come back from vacation more exhausted than we were when we left.

This wasn’t the case for Marco Polo, though. Marco Polo traveled around the Silk Road and China for about 24 years. That’s about a third of his life, and he wasn’t living it all go, go, GO! He would stay in one place for quite some time, and it’s not easy to understand what that is like.

In one scene, Marco Polo talks about these hills that are so pleasant and beautiful and bountiful that people go up there when they’re sick and are (as if by magic) healed. Marco attests to the healing properties of the area by saying that he’d been sick for about a year but got better once he saw how cool those hills were.

Sick. For a year.

More so than the magic of that particular hillside, the interesting thing to take from this is that Marco Polo didn’t see what he was doing as some kind of trip or vacation. It was just life. He wasn’t rushing around trying to knock the Taj Mahal off his checklist; he was more akin to a nomad. His home was the road.

And what a lifestyle! I don’t know if I’m jealous of him — he was ill for a whole year of this journey, after all — but it’s fun to imagine what life would be like if you just … didn’t have a permanent residence.

Are there still people in the world who live like that? Other than, like, you know, homeless people?

“Tao Te Ching” by Lao Tsu

I’ve never understood the idiom, “Don’t judge a book by its cover.” Book covers have a lot of useful information on them: there’s a synopsis, author information, maybe some helpful photos that’ll key you into the genre — one of the fundamental goals of a book cover is to help you judge whether or not you want to read that book.

The gist of the saying is that what’s inside matters more than what’s on the outside, but you can’t dismiss the elements of a book that aren’t related to its words. You’ve got to think about the whole package, including the cover.

When I was picking out the copy of “Tao Te Ching” by Lao Tsu (#30 on the list of 1,000 Books to Read Before You Die) that I was going to use, one of my primary concerns was the way the book felt. It had to be something that felt good in my hand, something sturdy with a little bit of give to it, something elegant and yet robust. There’s no easy way to describe the way a good book feels when you hold it, but you know the feeling when it strikes you.

At Barnes & Noble (the only local bookstore that had any copies of Tao), I was able to find four or five different editions. They were all slim — the book is not long — and had a variety of covers and weights of paper. Some were flimsy, some were sturdy. Some were glossy, some were matte. I collected them all and took the small stack of books to the Starbucks in the back of the store, ordered a latte, and sat down to inspect each one.

Knowing others is intelligence;
knowing yourself is true wisdom.
Mastering others is strength;
Mastering yourself is true power.
Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

I felt silly doing so. There’s something inherently funny about a middle-class white guy getting into an ancient Chinese philosophy, and there’s something ironic about doing so in a corporate coffee shop in the back of a corporate bookstore. That didn’t bother me, though. You’ve got to find silly, frivolous things to do with your time. Things that would baffle an outside observer, things that you can’t account for. A certain percentage of your life ought to be spent on a figurative trampoline, bouncing pointlessly for the sheer enjoyment of the act. In my case, I like to sit down in coffee shops and read translations of books whose first lines essentially tell you that you won’t understand what you’re reading.

Flipping through each of the editions of the “Tao Te Ching,” I noticed there were some fairly stark differences in their translation. This is not only because the text was originally written in 2,500 year-old Classical Chinese, but because many of the phrases and ideas don’t have one-to-one English equivalents. “Tao” is typically translated as way or path, even though the actual word is something more ephemeral, but every book had stark differences on a line-by-line basis. Were they accurate? Did the meaning change based on who had translated that particular text?

I read a lot of translated works and have thought about this question frequently, ultimately deciding that it doesn’t matter one bit. One can never know — it’s best just to judge the translation on its own merits and don’t fall into the rabbit hole of, “Was this correctly translated?” Meaning is lost in translation, but new meaning is also constructed, and (short of mastering both languages) you’ll never understand how.

The text upon which I settled was a small paperback edition with a black cover featuring a rocky outcropping in front of a foggy forest scene. I picked it because I liked its wording of the first chapter, and also because the paper was the right weight. It was the kind of book I could see myself annotating with a pen in the early morning when I was taking a train to work, underlining passages that I would ponder while looking at the countryside speeding by.

(I should point out that this image only exists in my mind. In Nebraska, trains haul corn or coal and little else. There are maybe a handful of passenger trains in this state, but they are kept more for novelty than practicality.)

Each of the chapters of the “Tao Te Ching” reads like an instructional poem, as if part of a poetry collection meant to teach you how to live a life of virtue. (This, in fact, is not far from how it was originally used.) The meanings of the poems, however, are quite elusive.

Here’s how it starts:

ONE

The Tao that can be told is not the eternal Tao.
The name that can be named is not the eternal name.
The nameless is the beginning of heaven and earth.
The named is the mother of ten thousand things.

If that seems confusing, don’t worry — you’re not alone in your confusion. It’s meant to be confounding. The first line points out that you can’t express the Tao (“way”) in words. In a certain sense, it’s saying that you won’t learn about the Tao by reading a book. You can only live the Tao; it’s an experience, not words.

My reading of the “Tao Te Ching” was not a quick one. I’d been feeling pretty overwhelmed with the amount of work I had taken on over the past few months, so I’d decided to incorporate a little bit of meditation into my daily routine. Nothing too fancy or time-consuming; I meditated each morning for perhaps ten or fifteen minutes. Was it helpful? I think so. I’ve gotten better at noticing times when I’m feeling anxious and have been able to ground myself. Reading the “Tao Te Ching” was a part of this practice, and I’d read a few chapters every day before work.

I also visited websites that offered interpretation of the Tao. While I would read each chapter and try to form my own understanding, it was helpful to be given some context. This website, I thought, was one of the most useful, offering chapter-by-chapter analysis and a clear “reading” of each section.

I also listened to a Taoist podcast called, “What’s This Tao All About?” Mostly, I listened to it while walking home from work or taking strolls through my neighborhood.

While I was walking, a troubling thought entered my mind.

Those who know do not speak. Those who speak do not know.
― Lao Tsu, Tao Te Ching

I was worried that the whole thing was a scam. There are a lot of “self-help” philosophies out there that try to sell you on the idea that there’s something wrong with you and reading a book can fix it. While I don’t believe that Lao Tsu is a 2,500 year-old shyster, it isn’t outside the realm of possibility that his philosophy has been co-opted by people who just want to sell books and videos and online subscriptions.

People who are looking for some sort of spiritual awakening are often vulnerable, and vulnerable people are easy to take advantage of. So are travelers, and you’ve got to watch out for fraudsters the same way you’d watch out for bears if you went hiking in the wilds of Wyoming.

Years ago, when I was backpacking through Cambodia, I had a similar feeling — a feeling that I was about to get scammed. My friend and I had just arrived in Siem Reap on a bus from the Vietnamese border, and it had been a horrible ride; passengers were tucked into seats like Tetris pieces, our legs jammed against the seats in front of us, our bags stored practically on top of us.

When the doors of the bus opened, we tumbled out of the vehicle and the driver shouted, “Jenga!” My friend and I did our best to stretch away the soreness while we looked around this new city.

While it isn’t always the case, you can generally tell how wealthy a country is by how clean its streets are. Only wealthy parts of the world bother to keep gutters clean; poor countries don’t hire cleaners to look after something as frivolous as the side of a road — they need that money for more important matters. By that rubric, Cambodia was not a wealthy place. The streets were lined with red dust and garbage, greasy and unkempt. We were dropped off in a parking lot on the side of a highway, and it was filled with tuk tuk drivers who were calling out to us. By name.

“Toad, hey!” they called. “Toad, you need a ride!” They weren’t asking.

We were quick to realize that the company through which we’d purchased bus tickets had likely called ahead to let others know the names of the passengers who would be arriving. The tuk tuk guys were trying to sell us rides, hoping that their use of our names would oblige use to ride with them. It was a tactic that preyed upon travelers who were insecure, unsure of how to proceed once they’d arrived.

While I was angry about it, this is just something that happens when you travel. People will take advantage of you in small ways, trying to sell you kitschy garbage, overcharging you at restaurants, leading you into obvious tourist traps where “art students” try to sell you paintings. In the worst cases, they will try to steal from you or (very, very rarely) abduct you. It’s something that you just have to accept, something that you have to prepare for and be wary of.

In our case, we did end up taking a ride on one of the predatory tuk tuks. The bumpy trip was only about $8, and it saved us having to walk two miles to our hostel.

Plus — and this is important — we were relatively wealthy people and the locals treat you well if you play along. Siem Reap is a tourist town; a lot of people there make their living selling tuk tuk rides, food, and drinks. There’s no use in angering a bunch of people who only want a few bucks.

While I had the sense that Taoism (or pseudo-Taoism) could be somewhat scammy, the tell-tale sign of a scam never seemed to materialize. In other words, there never came a point when anyone asked me for my credit card number. Sure, the podcasts I listened to asked for donations, but most small-scale podcasts do that. And the websites that are about Taoism all look like they were optimized for Netscape Navigator and certainly don’t ask you to subscribe.

The Taoist teachings you find in the “Tao Te Ching” are fairly difficult to parse. They all read like poetic parables that focus on juxtaposition and contradiction — paradoxical elements abound, and the overall message is about quitting the struggle. You’re advised to be like water, not to resist, not to seek wealth. Just be.

When you are content to be simply yourself and don’t compare or compete, everyone will respect you.
― Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

Tomorrow is going to happen whether you break your back trying or not, so what’s the use in breaking your back? Things will work themselves out; they have throughout all of history.

“They’re basically advocating for laziness,” I told Sarah. “‘Action through inaction,’ that sort of thing.”

“I can get behind that,” Sarah said.

“I mean…yeah. There is something satisfying about a philosophy that tells you not to worry so much and not to constantly try to improve.” Or, at least, after a semester of extremely hard work, it feels good to have a philosophy that tells you to take a break.

Hence it is said:
The bright path seems dim;
Going forward seems like retreat;
The easy way seems hard;
The highest Virtue seems empty
― Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

All of this, though, is completely at odds with the way most Americans live their lives. We are an awful bunch of try-hards, each of us hell-bent on “self-improvement.” Even as I read about Taoism, I constantly thought about how I could use this to become a better person. I pictured myself with a shaved head, perhaps wearing robes, perhaps walking through a jungle or a rock garden. I’d be a whole new man, a man to whom stress was a forgotten dream.

That won’t happen, of course. Even if I wanted to change, to become a full-fledged Taoist, I think the community I live in is fundamentally opposed to the transformation. It’d be like an ice cube spontaneously forming in the middle of a hot tub — theoretically possible, but utterly unlikely.

Still, there’s a side of me that longs for it. It’s the same side of me that will occasionally listen to a lecture by Alan Watts and dream of becoming a monk. One of those ascetics in wilds of Tibet, or perhaps Japan, who do walking meditation and only eat what people give them. I wonder if those kinds of monks are allowed to read books. They probably don’t get to go to Barnes & Noble, but there certainly can’t be teachings that go against libraries.

When those monks pick out what they’re going to read, do you suppose they consider the cover of the book they’re holding? The weight of the paper? The flexibility of the spine? Perhaps they’ve transcended all that to live on a spiritual plane that precludes such judgements. Paper is paper, and words are words. Trying to find books you enjoy is just needless struggle.

Or, more likely, they simply don’t worry about such things.

(I just looked it up and, yes, monks of both Buddhist and Taoist flavors can go to the libraries. It depends upon the sect, but many/most of them value education and don’t prohibit reading for pleasure.)

“A Lesson Before Dying” by Ernest J. Gaines

A Lesson Before Dying

At a time when the whole world seems like it’s going to hell, it’s important to keep one’s spirits up, and I can think of no better way to do so than getting lost for a few days in a bright, uplifting tale of systemic persecution and marginalization of minorities. If you’re like me and look to pile bad thoughts on top of worse ones, “A Lesson Before Dying” by Ernest J. Gaines (#366 on the list of 1,000 Books to Read Before You Die) can be found at your local library.

Like a perverse Fight Club, just go to a librarian and ask her to depress you as hard as she can.

“You DON’T TALK IN THE LIBRARY!”

In all seriousness, this book is amazing. While it is well written, the strength of “A Lesson Before Dying” isn’t in its prose as much as it is in the characters. It’s horrible to realize, but each one of them rings true in a way that you wish was impossible.

A black man sent to the electric chair for being in the wrong place at the wrong time? That tracks. A black teacher who hates teaching but can’t find any other work for an educated black man in the South? Yup. A reverend who touts that the true test of being educated is how frequently and well one lies in order to help others? Alright.

You know from the get-go that the book isn’t going to be happy. It doesn’t want to be happy. It waves happiness in your face like a pair of someone else’s panties it found in your glovebox. “These yours?” it asks, to which you can only bluster out some semblance of, “Nuh-uh.”

You go through page upon page knowing that things like this did happen, are happening, and will probably continue to happen.

It’s hard to say why, but this book made me think about death.

Surprise!

There have been a handful of times that I thought I was done for. Not in some philosophical sense of the word, but in the actual, “Welp, I’ve had a good run,” deer-in-the-headlights sense.

One of those times was when I was 24 and I was going into surgery. “I feel like I’m not going to wake up after this,” I said. I was on an operating table and perfectly earnest. Things were bleak — I was vomiting bile and had, for a short time, been convinced I was in hell. I told the doctors, “This is it for me. I’m checking out.”

“Nuh-uh,” said the anesthesiologist.

“You’re paid to say that.”

“And paid well.”

I had the overbearing sense that I needed to do something, to say something. I was knocking at the door of the Kingdom, so to speak, and God was hollering that he’d be there in just a second, damnit, he had a quiche in the oven, and just hold-the-fuck-on, he was coming.

Ultimately, though, what could I say? What could I do? All of these scrubbed-up bastards were waiting on me, and they were busy people. Practical people with automobiles and bank loans and skin-care routines.

So, I counted backwards. I remember making it to 97.

“Careful. It’s hot.”

Another time that I felt like I was dying was when I got food poisoning from a bad panini in Bangkok. I wish it had been from eating something cooler, but here we are. That time, death didn’t seem like such a bad thing. That is to say, I had such a high fever that I wasn’t worried about it.

“At least the pool’s nice and cool,” I said to myself, only realizing later that I’d been sweating so much that I was lying in an actual puddle.

Death is only scary if you’re aware enough to be scared. Otherwise it’s a novelty, this little curiosity, a new trend that everyone’s been talking about. Like fidget spinners. Nobody’s afraid of fidget spinners. If anything, we all think they’re sort of neat.

The hostel we were staying at had a pharmacy under it, so I sent Sarah down to get whatever drugs she could get for food poisoning. “Get the good stuff,” I said. “And make sure you tell them about the pool!”

(Thai pharmacies are strange places filled with medicines most Americans have never heard of. Between that and the language barrier, there was a good chance she’d come back with electric heroin or some other fun madness.)

I’m sure Sarah was more freaked out by the whole situation than I was. We’d just gotten engaged, or were about to be, and here I was hallucinating angels doing jackknifes off our room’s air conditioner. “The water’s fine!” I told them.

They knew already. Angels always do.

Well, butter my biscuits if it isn’t the patron saint of swan dives!

In “A Lesson Before Dying,” Jefferson — the character who is sentenced to death for no good reason — is continually asked to do things for other people. Talk, eat, find Jesus. His perspective is that there’s not much point in doing any of those things. Those are people things, and Jefferson is no longer a person; he’s an animal on the way to slaughter.

He’s been taken over by pessimism, which is easy to understand when you’re on death row. But his godmother, Miss Emma, wants Jefferson to face his end as a man. As if it matters how a man falls down!

“When the fall is all there is, it matters.” (That’s from The Lion in Winter.)

Like any good English major, immediately after reading the title of this book, I said to myself, ‘Who’s going to be the one learning a lesson? I bet it’s the narrator.” Narrators always go around learning things, and in this story, Grant, who is educated enough to be depressed about how dire everything is in the South, has a lot to learn.

There are a couple of ways, though, that you could construe the lesson. None of them are particularly upbeat, and the way I do interpret it isn’t the same as the way you will.

For me, the lesson is that your death isn’t about you. There’s something greater to be served in your final moments. Call it nobility or heroism or essential humanity, your death (and your life, I suppose) can be in service to others. You can show those around you that it’s possible to meet eternity on your own two feet.

Hello, eternity!

It provides and reinforces a sense of hope, which is a feeling that’s in short supply these days, and there’s a good chance that the hope you feel is entirely misplaced. Can death ever be truly noble? I suppose that’s up to you and your own faith.

It’s probably happier to think it’s possible, that there are angels up in heaven scoring perfect 10s even from the East German judges.

Does Ernest J. Gaines think so? Beats me.

The book ends with an endless, lingering feeling of fear, doubt, uncertainty. The feeling you get when you are suffering and you don’t know when it’s going to end. An on-the-floor feeling, when very often a single image will appear to you. A mundane image given new weight by your mind’s willingness to accept its significance.

The swirls in the carpet, an insect on a hill, the particular dance of an auburn leaf moments before freefall. Your whole body turns into a telescope that brings the image into sharp relief, and you suddenly don’t know why you’re looking, why you care. But you know that the image will stick to you, like a painting glued to the inside of your skull. Perhaps it’ll haunt you forever.

Perhaps you’ve seen it already.